Where is heat lost in your home?

Our illustration below highlights the main areas where heat is lost. Every house has its own specific inefficiencies, and you can contact us to arrange an energy survey so that you can start to make your home cosy and avail of any grant funding that can help meet your costs – call us on 0330 123 1334 or email us on info@retrofitworks.co.uk

Heat Loss Graphic

Roof and loft insulation

Heat rises, and in an uninsulated home a quarter of your heat is lost through the roof. Insulating your loft, attic or flat roof is a simple and effective way to save that waste and reduce your heating bills – you can even do it yourself.

Loft insulation is effective for at least 40 years, and it will pay for itself over and over again in that time.

Wall insulation

Around a third of all the heat lost in an uninsulated home goes through the walls. Heat will always flow from a warm area to a cold one. In winter, the colder it is outside, the faster heat from your home will escape into the surrounding air.

Most houses built from the 1990s onwards were built with insulation in the walls to keep the heat in, but if your house is older than that it may not have any wall insulation at all. If this is the case then you’re paying good money to heat the outside air, instead of just heating your home. Luckily most types of wall can be insulated in one way or another. If you have a typical house with cavity walls you could save up to £140 per year in heating bills just from insulating the walls.

The first thing you need to find out is what sort of walls you have, and we can help with arranging a home energy survey for you.

An important aspect of adding external wall insulation is whether or not you live in a conservation area – to download an advice sheet Click Here

Floor insulation

Insulating under the floorboards on your ground floor will save you around £60-£75 a year, and you can seal the gaps between floors and skirting boards to reduce draughts too. Gaps and draughts around skirting boards and floors are simple to fix yourself with a tube of sealant bought from any DIY store. Floorboards will rot without adequate ventilation, though, so don’t block under-floor airbricks in your outside walls.

Older homes are more likely to have suspended timber floors. Timber floors can be insulated by lifting the floorboards and laying mineral wool insulation supported by netting between the joists. Many homes – especially newer homes – will have a ground floor made of solid concrete. This can be insulated If it needs to be replaced, or can have rigid insulation laid on top. You don’t need to insulate the floors of upstairs rooms in your house if they’re above heated spaces (like the living room). But you should think about insulating any floors that are above unheated spaces such as garages, as you could be losing a lot of heat through those.


All properties lose heat through their windows. But energy-efficient glazing keeps your home warmer and quieter as well as reducing your energy bills. That might mean double or triple glazing, secondary glazing, or just heavier curtains.


Draught-proofing is one of the cheapest and most efficient ways to save energy – and money – in any type of building. Draughts are a bit like ventilation – both let fresh air into your home. Good ventilation helps reduce condensation and damp. But draughts are uncontrolled: they let in too much cold air and waste too much heat.

To draught-proof your home you should block up unwanted gaps that let cold air in and warm air out. Saving warm air means you’ll use less energy to heat your home, so you’ll save money as well as making your home snug and pleasant.

Insulating tanks, pipes and radiators

Lagging water tanks and pipes and insulating behind radiators reduces the amount of heat that escapes, so you spend less money heating water up, and hot water stays hotter for longer.

(Copy above courtesy http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk)